Leisure Springs Eternal

A nostalgic stay at “America’s Resort” blends recreation, design and history.

Written by Amy Conry Davis   |  Photographs Courtesy of The Greenbrier Resort

In the heart of the Alleghany Mountains, the Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, serves as both a luxury travel destination and a unique piece of American history. The allure of the lush 11,000-acre property dates to the late 1700s, when visitors first came to the area to rejuvenate in its cooler temperatures and the therapeutic natural waters found there.

Today, the Greenbrier has 710 signature rooms, ranging from 250 to 5,000 square feet, as well as rental cottages and homes. As part of the stay, a daily resort fee ($49 per room, per night) allows for additional amenities such as complimentary on-site transportation, nightly movies, champagne toasts and more.

Evident throughout is the iconic style of interior designer Dorothy Draper, which has often been described as “the opposite of minimalism.” Cam Huffman, public relations director for the Greenbrier, says Draper’s attention to detail, bright colors and bold patterns in the spaces are what give the hotel its signature look and has set it apart since it was first decorated in the 1940s.

“I think one of the most amazing parts is just how long her design has survived from her, then to her protege, Carleton Varney,” Huffman said. “The Greenbrier changed hands with ownership along the way, and a lot of different things could have ended that run for Dorothy Draper and her decor, but it never happened, and it sort of defines the Greenbrier and hopefully will be here for a long time to come.”

While the tradition of bathing in (and even drinking from) the original hot springs is no longer an option, guests can choose to luxuriate in a private soak tub with mineral water pumped in from the source at the Greenbrier Spa. There’s also a private casino, more than 30 retail shops, golf, tennis, walking trails, afternoon tea and all manner of outdoor fun, including kid-friendly adventures.

Also on the property is a row of artisan shops — charming cottages that date to the 1830s — from which local artists sell handmade items, and the Presidents’ Cottage Museum, a circa-1835 residence filled with exhibits about the resort’s history.

Among the extensive list of events and activities at the Greenbrier, however, one continues to be a fan favorite: the bunker tour. Tickets for the 90-minute experience (which is open to anyone, not just overnight guests) run $52 and offer a behind-the-scenes glimpse of a Cold War fallout shelter “hidden in plain sight.”

“The bunker tour definitely is one of our more popular attractions,” says Huffman. “We have 10-12 tours a day, and they’re usually all filled up. I think people like the history of it but also the unlikeliness of having (it) in a place that looks like the Greenbrier.”            

With more than a dozen restaurants and lounges on the grounds, all of which have their own dress code, options run the gamut from in-room dining and Southern fare to craft cocktails and coal-fired pizza. According to Huffman, a steak at Prime 44 West or a sunset dinner at Sam Snead’s are good places to start but one venue shouldn’t be missed.

“I think to have the true, authentic Greenbrier experience you have to dine in the Main Dining room,” says Huffman. “It’s open for breakfast and dinner everyday and has been since the current hotel opened in 1913. It’s the iconic Greenbrier experience that you have to take in…and you won’t find anything like it anywhere else.”

Learn more about the Greenbrier Resort at greenbrier.com.